The First Batch Is the Town's Alarm Clock

The baker's story, in his own words.

— What time does your morning start?

"3:30. A bit later in winter. Nobody asked me to, but I don't want to change the time the first batch comes out. Six o'clock. Before commuter cars start passing, the front of the shop smells of bread. That's sort of our opening signal."

— Even with the same dough every morning, does it differ day to day?

"It does. Temperature, humidity, and the water temperature. We use well water, so it's cold even in summer. You can't fool the dough. On a day you cut corners, you can tell by the face of the loaf. Bread has a face? It does, believe it or not."

"When I was training in Tokyo, mornings were torture. Since coming here, morning is the best time of work. No one around, no phone ringing, just the oven and me. It's a luxurious time. When I think I'm glad I became a baker, it's usually at four in the morning."