Walking Japan's Earliest Autumn Colors

Ginsendai, Akadake, Asahidake. Walking Japan's earliest autumn colors, starting mid-September, step by step.

Daisetsuzan's autumn colors begin at the summits in mid-September and come down to the foothills in early October. Japan's earliest autumn is a long procession descending the mountain over three weeks. "You don't chase autumn colors. You lie in wait for them," says Otsuka.

Where to lie in wait

For first-timers, Asahidake's Sugatami Pond. You can go up by ropeway; the loop takes an hour. Next, from Ginsendai to Akadake. "The slopes of the First Flower Garden turn bright red. That's not a painting — it's autumn color that hits you by sheer area." Experienced walkers head to the grass colors of chinguruma at Susoaidaira.

In the color season, the mountains are also the entrance to winter. "A summit in September is November on the flats. Dress not for viewing leaves, but for an early-winter mountain." Otsuka talked longer about gloves and temperatures than about the leaves. I think that's what being a guide is.